Fall is the ideal time for planting new trees

Planting shade trees in your landscape this fall will allow you to bask in the glow of their autumn leaves year after year. From the red and orange autumn leaves of maples to the yellow autumn leaves of aspens, don't miss out on the colorful displays you'll get by planting these magnificent fall foliage trees!

The shade from these trees also cools hot streets and parking lots in the summer. Cities are "heat islands" that are 5-9 degrees hotter than surrounding areas. Shade trees that are properly located on your property can cut summer utility bills by 20 percent or more. For energy efficiency it is best to plant deciduous trees on the west side of your house.

But be careful where you plant them, as trees, like people, grow up. Planting a tree that will grow too large for its location is one of the most common mistakes people make (along with planting too many trees). Find out the mature size a tree will achieve before you plant it. Remember, that a small one when planted will look entirely different after only a few years of growth in your back yard. You should plant most shade trees at least 30 feet from your house and 10 feet from paved areas to prevent roots from damaging foundations. Columnar trees-such as birch and poplar-can be planted a little closer, about 15 to 20 feet from your home's foundation.

Planting a mature tree can be very difficult and costly, if done by a professional which includes their big machinery. At times, a mature tree is badly needed though for a patio or terrace or for screening, in these cases it may well justify the expense.

Planting a tree in the cool weather of Fall or if the weather is still hot in the evening is ideal. For sure the weather should not be blazing hot. Carefully place your tree into the hole you have dug and adjust until the crown of the root ball (or the "root collar," a slight swelling on the stem that develops in the nursery at the ground line, just above the roots) slightly above the surrounding ground. Be sure you handle the tree by the root ball, not by the trunk. In the past it was considered unnecessary to remove the burlap from the root ball of the tree, but loosening the burlap will make it easier for the tree to grow.

Now fill the hole in with native soil only. You do not want to place other amendments — not even compost or fertilizer — in the planting hole. After you have filled and made firm the soil around the tree you will want to give it a big drink. Trees lose moisture throughout the winter, so a good soak is what it needs.

You may also want to mulch around it. This is to protect the roots of the tree not the trunk. Mulch is helpful because it minimizes moisture loss. Mulch also may be used to prevent weeds and slows the freezing of the soil so root growth continues as long as possible.

Wrapping the trunks of thin-barked, young trees in late November helps prevent frost cracks, sunscald, and animal damage, but be sure to remove the wrap in March. Wrapping the tree's trunk is unnecessary for many trees and should be used primarily on new trees. If your tree comes already wrapped, remove the wrapping and inspect the trunk for signs of damage or wounds. Then you may re-wrap the trees trunk.

Planting hardy trees in the fall of the year is ideal, as it will allow the plants to form a good root system before they have to contend with the heat and humidity of our summers. If you had to pick the best time to plant a tree, fall and early winter is it!

Plant a tree today and make a difference for tomorrow!

Planting trees “by the Yard”