Fall is the ideal time for planting new trees

Planting shade trees in your landscape this fall will allow you to bask in the glow of their autumn leaves year after year. From the red and orange autumn leaves of maples to the yellow autumn leaves of aspens, don't miss out on the colorful displays you'll get by planting these magnificent fall foliage trees!

The shade from these trees also cools hot streets and parking lots in the summer. Cities are "heat islands" that are 5-9 degrees hotter than surrounding areas. Shade trees that are properly located on your property can cut summer utility bills by 20 percent or more. For energy efficiency it is best to plant deciduous trees on the west side of your house.

But be careful where you plant them, as trees, like people, grow up. Planting a tree that will grow too large for its location is one of the most common mistakes people make (along with planting too many trees). Find out the mature size a tree will achieve before you plant it. Remember, that a small one when planted will look entirely different after only a few years of growth in your back yard. You should plant most shade trees at least 30 feet from your house and 10 feet from paved areas to prevent roots from damaging foundations. Columnar trees-such as birch and poplar-can be planted a little closer, about 15 to 20 feet from your home's foundation.

Planting a mature tree can be very difficult and costly, if done by a professional which includes their big machinery. At times, a mature tree is badly needed though for a patio or terrace or for screening, in these cases it may well justify the expense.

Planting a tree in the cool weather of Fall or if the weather is still hot in the evening is ideal. For sure the weather should not be blazing hot. Carefully place your tree into the hole you have dug and adjust until the crown of the root ball (or the "root collar," a slight swelling on the stem that develops in the nursery at the ground line, just above the roots) slightly above the surrounding ground. Be sure you handle the tree by the root ball, not by the trunk. In the past it was considered unnecessary to remove the burlap from the root ball of the tree, but loosening the burlap will make it easier for the tree to grow.

Now fill the hole in with native soil only. You do not want to place other amendments — not even compost or fertilizer — in the planting hole. After you have filled and made firm the soil around the tree you will want to give it a big drink. Trees lose moisture throughout the winter, so a good soak is what it needs.

You may also want to mulch around it. This is to protect the roots of the tree not the trunk. Mulch is helpful because it minimizes moisture loss. Mulch also may be used to prevent weeds and slows the freezing of the soil so root growth continues as long as possible.

Wrapping the trunks of thin-barked, young trees in late November helps prevent frost cracks, sunscald, and animal damage, but be sure to remove the wrap in March. Wrapping the tree's trunk is unnecessary for many trees and should be used primarily on new trees. If your tree comes already wrapped, remove the wrapping and inspect the trunk for signs of damage or wounds. Then you may re-wrap the trees trunk.

Planting hardy trees in the fall of the year is ideal, as it will allow the plants to form a good root system before they have to contend with the heat and humidity of our summers. If you had to pick the best time to plant a tree, fall and early winter is it!

Plant a tree today and make a difference for tomorrow!

Planting trees “by the Yard”

An eco-friendly way turn your yard debris into “black gold”

The evenings are turning cool and the leaves are beginning to turn into a brilliant bouquet of colors. The summer is gone and we welcome fall. But fall is not a time to hibernate indoors yet, there is a lot of work still to be done in our back yards.

Not the least of which is dealing with all those leaves and yard waste. If you’ve avoided composting because,
- you think its too much work and mess
- or you just aren’t sure how to get started.
Then fall is a great time to try your hand at turning this year’s yard debris into next year’s natural fertilizer.

You may already know that composting is the best way to turn those yard clippings, fall leaves and kitchen greens into valuable organic material that your plants will just love. But you may not know that by composting your yard and kitchen waste, you can also reduce the amount of waste you send to the landfill by over one-third. So why not get started.

Composting is nature's way of recycling. When you compost, you convert vegetable scraps, leaves, grass clippings and other materials into a useful soil builder. It is an aerobic process that requires oxygen and under the right conditions, microorganisms grow and multiply, converting the original organic material into a more stable, usable product.

Composting is not an exact science though. It’s a lot like cooking, and the easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly equal parts of organic materials rich in nitrogen, referred to as GREENS (fresh veggie scraps or grass clippings), while the rest can be lumped together as BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves). Some people think a good general rule of thumb is use 2-3 parts brown to 1 part green. Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile, enclosure or bought composting bin. It is maybe best accomplished with the use of a compost bin as the bin helps to keep the pile neat and rodent free, reduces moisture loss, and retains the heat generated in the pile. Experience will tell you what works best for you.

Community composting is the next best option for those who are unable to compost at home. Community owned sites are an ideal way to keep the waste and the finished product close to where it originates. We have a city run composting site in our city where householders can bring garden waste for composting at no charge. The city also collects it in the spring and fall.

Composting is the natural process that decomposes yard waste and food waste to make a brown, crumbly soil additive that is sanitized; stabilized; high in humic substances and that enhances the health of your lawn and gardens. This organic matter improves plant growth by helping to break heavy clay soils into a better texture, by adding water and nutrient-holding capacity to sandy soils, and by adding essential nutrients to any soil. Improving your soil is the first step toward improving the health of your plants.

Fall, by nature, is an exceptional time to begin composting. Dry leaves, grass clippings and woody materials represent a large percentage of total yard waste. Each offers either the carbon or nitrogen components necessary for the decomposition process that takes place during composting. Add air and water, and you’re well on your way to rich, loamy compost.

Composting delivers many benefits. Modern gardeners face strict waste removal ordinances in many communities. Plus, growing environmental consciousness inspires gardeners to minimize their eco footprint while cleaning up the back yard. It is a cost-effective, eco-friendly way to convert your yard debris into “black gold”.

Composting is so easy and enjoyable it can be part of your daily routine. Whether you own or rent, if you aren't composting yet, you are missing out on a great opportunity to reduce landfill waste and feed your garden with a nutrient rich, all-natural, safe fertilizer for next spring’s planting season.

omposting "by the yard"

Avoiding the Pitfalls of Autumn Yard Work, part 2

Last time we mentioned that approximately 42 million people seek emergency room treatment for injuries each year, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Many of these injuries happen while homeowners are performing seemingly routine tasks; like fall yard work. In part one we were talking about how to prevent injury from raking leaves. So, now more on safety while doing your fall yard work.
Autumn is a great time to clear out gutters, check roof integrity and wash windows. More than 532,000 people were injured in falls from ladders in 2007, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

2. How to stay safe on a ladder:

a. Choose the right ladder for the job. A step stool or utility ladder is good for working at low levels or step ladders for medium height jobs while, extension ladders are appropriate for outdoors to reach high places, such as washing windows or for when you need to clean gutters or inspect the roof.

b. First of all inspect the ladder and make sure it is safe and free from loose screws, braces or rungs. Clean off any accumulation of mud, dirt or liquids that might make it slippery.

c. If it is a step ladder, make sure all four legs sit firmly on a level surface. Avoid setting it up on uneven ground or soft, muddy spots. If you need to make the ground level, do so by digging one leg into the ground.

d. Before you climb, be sure the ladder locks are in place and safety braces are engaged.

e. Never sit or stand on the top of a step ladder or on its pail shelf. These areas were not designed to carry your weight.

f. Do not stretch or lean to reach your work area. Be aware of your balance; instead reposition the ladder closer to your work.

Another area to think and be safe about is the lawn mower. It will soon be time to store the mower until spring but chances you are still going to mow the grass a few more times before the snow falls. You may also use it to collect leaves or and lawn clippings. Then you will be cleaning it up and storing it for the season. Lawnmowers are powerful tools and they can cause significant injury. In 2007, more than 225,000 people were injured by power, manual and riding lawn mowers, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

3. To avoid lawnmower-related injuries:

a. Make sure you shut off the engine and let it cool off before you refuel your lawnmower or begin to do any maintenance work on it.

b. Never use your hands or feet to clear debris from under a lawnmower, even if the engine is off as the blade can still move and cause serious injury. Use a stick or broom handle instead and you will be much safer.

c. Never remove any safety devices, guards or shields. This is true for any power equipment.

d. Never leave your lawnmower running unattended, though this is more difficult today with the kill switch on the handle of modern mowers.

e. Wear protective clothing like gloves, protective boots and long pants when mowing your grass. Never mow barefoot or in sandals.

f. Never mow while or after consuming alcoholic beverages.

Home safety is no accident. Working safe is not an option. Working safe is not something someone else does for you or to you any time there is a hazard or unsafe condition. It is what you do for yourself. Don’t become one of the statistics. Avoid the pitfalls of fall yard work this year.

Avoiding Pitfalls “By the yard”