A Beautiful and Healthy Lawn

It’s time to start working on that beautiful and healthy lawn in your yard. You don’t have to use chemicals to have a beautiful lawn. In fact, your lawn will be much healthier if you ban the use of chemicals. Many communities have and are in the process of banning the use of lawn chemicals (mine already has). The use of chemicals can poison soil and contaminate our water.

Use the following tips to get your lawn off drugs.

• Start off by testing your lawn’s soil, using a soil test kit. This will tell you how much organic matter is in the soil, the ph balance and what nutrients you need to obtain a perfect soil balance.

• Aerating your lawn at this time of year is always a good idea in order to prevent the soil from becoming compacted. This breaks through heavy thatch and allows nutrients and organic matter to reach your lawn’s root system. If water runs off your lawn easily when watering, it’s a sure sign that you need to aerate. Note: The best aerators in the world are earthworms.

• Check your lawn for thatch and if the thatch layer is more than a half inch thick, it’s time to de-thatch. Thatch prevents air, nutrients and water from getting to the soil which can cause a wide variety of problems. If you aerate and rake your lawn briskly, most of the thatch will be removed. You don’t have to get rid of all the thatch as some thatch is beneficial to your lawn as it promotes decomposition of grass clippings and organic matter.

• If your lawn has some bare spots, you need to reseed with a mixture of grass varieties. Most lawn diseases are very selective. By using a mixture of grasses, you will ensure that your lawn will not be totally wiped out by disease.

• You need to learn to tolerate beneficial weeds, such as clover. Clover is a nitrogen magic plant that will enhance the health and beauty of your lawn.

• The best type of weed control is to remove weeds by hand. Around 80% of all weeds are annuals. If you remove them before they go to seed, you will be rid of them. Some lawn weeds are perennials and you need to dig them out by root. It must be the entire root system to ensure they can’t grow back.

• Grass is always healthier when it is a bit longer. Grass should always be two to three inches high. To prevent it from going into shock you should only cut one third of the height of the grass at one time. Taller grass grows longer roots, shades the soil and prevents weed infiltration. It is also imperative that the mower blade is always sharp to prevent grass damage.

• Do not remove your grass clippings from your lawn. This saves you raking your lawn and also acts as natural fertilizer if they aren’t coated with chemicals. To promote the decomposition process though, you need to make sure the grass clippings are not clumped.

• There are several creatures that are the secret to having a healthy and drug free lawn. Invite beneficial micro organisms and earthworms to your lawn, as well as dragonflies, ladybugs, spiders, toads and frogs.

• Water your lawn thoroughly and deeply but only when it requires it. If you water frequently and lightly, your lawn will have shallow roots, which makes it more susceptible to disease and insects.

• Always use natural fertilizers. Organic fertilizer decomposes thatch and grass clippings quickly. Natural fertilizers release nutrients into the soil better and allow it to retain them longer. Sheep manure is one of the best natural fertilizers available.

• Do not use herbicides or pesticides. Chemicals kill birds, insects and earthworms that are beneficial to your lawn’s health. If you practice natural lawn care, you will discourage pests.

Beautiful Lawns “by the yard”

Designing a Japanese Garden

When designing your Japanese Garden you need to think and act a little different then with other types of designs. You will still need to organize and draw out your garden design, and determine the shape of your landscape and what you desire for your garden. But you should also allow yourself to "go with the flow" and let it "speak to you" as your garden takes shape. Allow for improvisation and ideas to emerge rather than being rigid in sticking to your original design plan.

We in the west often feel compelled to try to control and plan all aspects of design when making something. We don't want to make a mistake. Here you need to make your plans loosely to leave more for those ideas that come and the actual design takes shape. This can be liberating for some but intimidating for others. If you work through the questions below it will help you stay on track.

Before any work begins within the yard itself, a basic garden plan should be drawn up to help you formulate your ideas and the placement of elements. Here are several questions you need to address to help with this process:

1. Do you already have an existing garden in the area where you wish to incorporate a Japanese garden style? If so, what type of garden is it (flower garden, English garden, rustic wildflower garden, etc.)?

2. Do you want to try to integrate your current garden into the new Japanese garden plan? What aspects and features do you want to remain and what has to be moved, replaced, or removed entirely?

3. What style of Japanese garden are you most interested in - tea garden, courtyard garden, stroll garden, pond and island garden, Zen rock garden or a combination of them? But for small areas, you will most likely want to stick to only one style. For those who have a large area to landscape, you can have your choice of any of the styles which compliment your yard and suit your desires.

4. Does the area you’re designing have natural hills and valleys? Are there any design elements, such a stream, already present? How large is the area you are considering using? Take a good visual view of your selected site and note down all the details on paper. Take measurements as well, so you know the exact area size you will be working with.

5. Which elements and features are important to you? Would you like one small area to feature a Zen garden? Is a stepping-stone pathway which leads to a gate appealing? Do you wish to add a feature like a waterfall, water basin, or a rock arrangement?

6. Will you be building this garden by yourself or will you have help? The size, design and amount of work to create your Japanese garden will obviously affect this answer. For example, building a very large stroll garden by yourself would take a long time and may be impractical. Then again maybe you can plan and do it in stages.

7. If you plan to use large boulders or plant more mature trees (rather than saplings), how will you get them into your garden? Is there room and access for large machinery to help with placement? Keep in mind boulders and large trees are extremely heavy.

8. Will your garden be formal, semi-formal, or informal (rustic)?

9. Many Japanese gardens are actually built around a theme. Do you have a theme in mind for your garden? Your theme could even revolve around a smaller replica or area of an original famous garden of Japan. Read books and view photographs of existing gardens to get some ideas. An example of a theme would be a miniaturized version of "The Bridge To Heaven", which is a marble and stone bridge that spans the famous Dragon Beard Ditch in China. This bridge was built over 600 years ago to allow the Ming and Qing emperors to cross over on their way to the Temple of Heaven.

10. What do you want to achieve with your garden? Will it be used primarily for meditation? Do you wish to incorporate a strolling pathway with new visual delights beyond each curve? Do you want the invigorating sounds of water, such as a waterfall or fast moving stream? Will it be a place to sit quietly and contemplate nature? Understanding the concept behind the garden design is important.

If you carefully contemplate these questions and answer them before you begin to put your design down on paper, it will really help you know how to design your garden. Otherwise you could end up with a garden that holds no meaning for you or your visitors. A Japanese garden should have a "reason for being." What are your reasons?

Japanese Gardens “by the yard”